Temper city
2 Angel Court, EC2R

WHAT AND WHERE? Temper City is the second restaurant from Neil Rankin, the barbecue king behind Pitt Cue and Smokehouse, set in a warehouse-style hideaway in Angel’s Court. If you’re familiar with the tacos and tortillas of Soho, this one shakes it up for the City slickers with in-house butchered steaks, rich curries and two tandoor grills.

WHAT’S THE DEAL? The Temper City Express Lunch offers three courses for £24, beverages not included.

WHAT’S FOR LUNCH? To start you get either a mutton roll, burrata, or squid and samphire pakora. Choose one of four curries for a main, served on a thali plate with house-made Indian snacks, or one of four fillings for a kati paratha roll, served with fries or quinoa salad. Dessert is a very practical affair, with a slightly gelatinous gin & tonic sorbet to freshen things up before you head back to the office.

Burrata, lime and jalapeno. Photo: Melissa York

IS IT VEGGIE FRIENDLY? The jalapeno and lime burrata starter is a welcome interloper from the menu in Soho, with the hot pepper giving the soft-centered cheese a polite slap on the flanks. For the main, go for the tomato and charred aubergine curry on a thali plate. It’s a sweet, smoky and mildly spicy pureed dish, and can be vegan by request. There’s a big old haunch of butchered animal hanging up on hooks in the open kitchen, though, in case that’s a consideration.

WHAT SHOULD I PICK? If it’s value for money you’re after, the squid and samphire pakora is springy and light, and could easily feed two people. The burrata is a delicate and more discerning choice. Then work your way around a thali plate like it’s a spicy wheel of good fortune, from turmeric pickles, to moreish, crispy strands of potato. The house bombay mix, using crumbled Monster Munch and golden raisins, should be packaged up and sold everywhere, pronto.

Inside Temper City. Photo by Steven Joyce

WHAT IF IT GETS BOOZY? Get stuck into a hoppy Temper lager or end with a Chamomile the F**k Down cocktail. Their asterisks, not ours.

NEED TO BOOK? Not if you’re visiting early in the week, but if you’re going on Thursday or Friday, call 020 3004 6984 or book online at temperrestaurant.com/reservations

VALUE FOR MONEY? You won’t come out hungry, and that simple sorbet really is all you need for dessert.

COULD I DO IT IN A LUNCH HOUR? Service is attentive, but let them know if you’re in a hurry.

THE VERDICT… Hot, in every sense of the word. You won’t need to temper expectations because this curry house delivers.

Read more:We review the set menu at new Greek in town Meraki

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